I have a confession to make: Halloween has never been a big holiday for me. My children love it, of course—the costumes, the candy, the neighborhood buzz of trick-or-treating. But I’ve always preferred to decorate for the autumn rather than fill my home with ghosts and goblins. Maybe it’s the French in me. In France, November 1st is La Toussaint—All Saints’ Day in France—and it carries a quieter kind of beauty.
What La Toussaint Looks Like in France
La Toussaint is both a catholic tradition and a national holiday in France, so many shops and post offices are closed. Families use the day to slow down, be together, and remember loved ones. It’s a saints’ day and for many French people it’s simply part of the rhythm of life—pause, reflect, and reconnect. And there’s a good reason this tradition endures: it gives everyone permission to stop and hold space for memory.
The next day, November 2nd, is All Souls’ Day (often marked with special church services). Together, the two create a soft, reflective stretch—a little week of festivities that feels more like candles and quiet walks than costumes and “boo!”
A Nourishing Perspective:
French rituals, like All Saints Day in France, remind us that nourishment isn’t just on the plate—it’s found in slowing down, savoring, and creating beauty in everyday life.
Flowers, Candlelight, and Family
If you’re in France during La Toussaint, you’ll notice something instantly: potted chrysanthemums everywhere—la chrysanthème. Families visit the family grave, straighten stones, place flowers, and sometimes light candles. While mums are cheerful front-porch décor in the United States, in France they’re closely tied to remembrance. It’s a small cultural difference that says a lot about the French way—thoughtful, understated, and deeply connected to family members.
Travel Timing & School Breaks
La Toussaint coincides with school holidays—les vacances de la Toussaint—so it’s a good reason for family trips or visits to grandparents. In rural areas, it also lines up with the time of year when gardens are tucked in and the last apples and pumpkins are finding their way into the kitchen. Everything slows just a bit.
If You’re in Paris (or Dreaming of It)
Paris holds a particularly moving version of this tradition at Père Lachaise, one of the most famous cemeteries in the world. People often stop by the resting places of Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison, but the real memory is the hush of footsteps, the glow of lanterns, and rows of chrysanthemums.
Halloween vs. Toussaint—A French Balance
A French-style Halloween exists in recent years, especially in cities, but it’s still not the main event, and you won’t usually see the full gory Halloween spectacle. Think playful costumes for kids, maybe a French adaptation of the American trick-or-treat in some neighborhoods, and then a pivot to the calm of La Toussaint—time with close friends, members of a family, and a meal at home. Different energy; same season.
How to Mark La Toussaint—Wherever You Live
Even if you’re far from France, you can invite this tradition in:
- Visit a resting place on November 1st or that weekend. Bring a simple plant or bouquet (mums if you like), and spend a few quiet minutes remembering.
- Light candles at home and tell a story about a grandparent, godparent, or friend. This is a beautiful time of the year to reconnect your family links.
- Keep dinner simple—a pot of soup, warm bread, apples for dessert. Let the table do the comforting.
- Send a note or make a call to someone you miss. La Toussaint is as much about the living as it is about memory.
Practical Notes If You’re Traveling
Because it’s a public holiday, expect closures on All Saints’ Day in France. Trains and roads can be busier due to les vacances de la Toussaint, so plan ahead. If you do visit a cemetery, dress for the weather and bring change for the flower vendor—you’ll see chrysanthemums lined up in every shade of autumn.
A Softer November
While Halloween night brings sparkle and sugar highs, La Toussaint offers something steadier—space to honor those we love and to hold memory with tenderness. Perhaps this year, alongside pumpkins and falling leaves, you’ll place a chrysanthemum at a family grave, or simply pause at home with a candle. In that gentle moment, you’ll be living a little more like the French.
À bientôt,
Gaby
